Coloring the Cosmetic World: Using Pigments in Decorative Cosmetic Formulations

Edwin B. Faulkner

Format Details

  • Hardcover
  • 275 Pages
  • 38 Pages of Color Inserts
  • Published 2012
  • ISBN-13: 9781932633979
  • Coming this Fall! Formulating in Color: A Practical Guide to Color Cosmetic Formulation Strategies by Jane Hollenberg

  • Description
  • Table of Contents
  • Author Information
  • Expert Review

In Coloring the Cosmetic World, Edwin Faulkner, a 40-year veteran of the color industry, offers a comprehensive look at what goes into selecting colors for decorative cosmetic products.

Across 12 information-packed chapters, Faulkner covers topics ranging from Color Basics, to the stability and esthetics of Color Selection, to Color Dispersion and Measuring & Testing techniques. Furthermore, specific pigments groups are broken down individually and afforded focused attention with respect to chemical properties, regulatory concerns, applicability to various product developments, esthetic quality, and the economics of selecting colors for use in decorative cosmetics.

Additionally, most of the pigments under discussion are rendered in full masstone color, to give the reader a true appreciation of the subtle and not-so-subtle differences between them.

Coloring the Cosmetic World: Using Pigments in Decorative Cosmetic Formulations is your guide to the wide world of decorative cosmetic pigments. Whether you are a seasoned veteran of pigment chemistry or a novice stepping gingerly into cosmetic formulation, this book is a valuable reference source from an industry-respected authority on color that will get you moving toward successful pigment usage. Welcome to the world of decorative cosmetic colors!

Topics include:

  • Covers the full measure of practical pigment usage in decorative cosmetics, with the emphasis on practical
  • Develops a four step procedure for how to go about properly selecting colors for use in decorative cosmetics
  • Pigments covered include conventional organics and inorganics plus a wide range of effect pigments such as pearls, metallics, fluorescents, glitters and gold & silver. Natural colors are also discussed
  • Other general topics covered color stability and regulations, esthetics,economics of color usage, dispersion and color measurement

Edwin B. Faulkner is global business director of cosmetics and personal care for Sun Chemical Corporation, where his devoted 38-year tenure has seen him through numerous technical, manufacturing, administrative, sales and regulatory positions. His work with Sun Chemical has taken him around the world, from North and South America to numerous European and Asian countries.

Ed holds a degree in chemistry from Widener University, and is presently an adjunct faculty member at the University of Cincinnati, where he teaches in the Cosmetic Science Masters Program. He is also an instructor for both the Center for Professional Advancement in New Brunswick, New Jersey, and the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, where he also serves as the color expert on the "Ask the Expert"; section of their website. Formerly chairman of the Color Additive Committee of the Cosmetic, Toiletries and Fragrance Association (CTFA) and currently active in the Colored Pigments Manufacturers Association (CPMA), including a term as chairman of the annual CPMA conference (2004-2005), Faulkner has also served as chairman of the Intertech Color Cosmetics Summit in Paris, Nice, Montreal and Boca Raton; he is currently on the Speaker Review Committee for the same conference. He has lectured on the subject of pigments in many parts of the world, including the United States, England, France, Venezuela, Chile, Japan, Holland and China.

In addition to numerous articles published on organic pigments, as well as the Color Cosmetic Additives chapter in The Chemistry and Manufacture of Cosmetics, Ed is co-editor of the second edition of the High Performance Pigment Handbook.

Outside of his professional activities, Ed leads an active life. He and his wife Amy have adopted four retired racing greyhounds and are partners in a consortium that owns three thoroughbred race horses. In the community, Ed serves as chairman of the Board of Adjustments for the City of Covington, Kentucky and is also on the board of the historic Linden Grove Cemetery in Covington, which dates to 1843 and president of his neighborhood HOA. Ed's hobbies include collecting and driving antique cars; he owns two Model T Fords, a 1957 Ford Thunderbird, a 1959 Austin Healey Sprite, a 1986 Deux Chevaux, and a vintage BMW convertible. He also collects antique military handguns and keeps them all in working order.

In order to save time and lab efforts, it would be best to prepare a large dispersion of a controlled standard preparation by an appropriate system and use it to test numerous batches of color additives as received, evaluating them by the same test methodologies. Like all other aspects of formulating decorative cosmetic products, economics has to play an important role in the selection process...

Read the full review and summary of this title published in the Journal of Applied Cosmetology. by P. Morganti, Editor-in-Chief

"Faulkner's new book, Coloring the Cosmetic World: Using Pigments in Decorative Cosmetic Formulations, is the latest color cosmetic technology book from Alluredbooks. The book promises to provide a comprehensive look at all aspects of this subject, and overall it meets and exceeds that goal. Its blend of practical information and theoretical information make it a valuable addition to any cosmetic chemist's bookshelf.

Book organization

This book covers the subject of colorants in 12 chapters. It also includes extensive appendices, glossary, and bibliography. The first chapter provides a solid background for the subject of colorants, covering topics of color theory, effects on people, physics, and finally an introduction to color chemistry. This is particularly helpful for a cosmetic chemist just getting started with the subject. The next four chapters take an in-depth look at the key aspects of choosing a colorant. These include regulatory considerations, stability, color esthetics, and the economics of color. The regulatory chapter provides a description of the requirements of the United States, European Union, and Japan. It also includes a nice historical perspective of how things ended up the way they are now. This chapter is particularly helpful, because it suggests what may happen to color regulations in the future. In the chapter on color stability, the author describes the various colorants that a formulator will likely use in her product. Two parts of this chapter will be most helpful to cosmetic chemists including a chart which lists the compatibility of colorants with a number of solvents and a section of color photos of numerous powdered colors. No doubt this will become a section of the book that gets referred to often. One of the most useful chapters in the book is the one on color esthetics. Here the author takes us through dozens of colorants describing the shade that can be produced, which product forms it is normally used in and both positive and negative aspects of using the color. This chapter will save time for any color cosmetic formulator. The chapters in the second half of the book deal with the specifics of formulating with colorants, testing, and newer pigment technology. The pigment dispersion chapter focuses on creating color cosmetic formulations. The color testing chapter is brief but detailed methodologies in the appendix more than make up for any shortcomings. The final chapters of the book discuss some specific color technologies including surface treated pigments, effect pigments, specialty pigments and natural colorants. Each chapter provides a blend of interesting background science and practical knowledge that can be used at the bench right away.

Colorful ending

The book's last chapter is possibly one of the most entertaining. It does not discuss much about colorants but rather provides some sage advice from a color formulator who has spent 40 years in the pigment and cosmetic industries. This is bound to make any cosmetic formulator smile. There are a number of useful pages included after the primary text. This section makes up almost a third of the book and includes the aforementioned appendix on color testing methodologies, an extensive listing on the patent history of colorants, a glossary, and an index. The title of this book suggests it will provide a detailed look at the world of pigments used in color cosmetics and it certainly delivers. For cosmetic formulators who are just getting started, this could be the one and only book on color that you will ever need. And its detailed regulatory information, practical formulating tips, testing protocols, and description of pigment and color technology make it an indispensable reference for all color cosmetic scientists."

— Perry Romanowski, President of Element 44, Inc.

"Now with the cosmetics and personal care department of a chemical corporation, Faulkner realized when he switched from manufacturing of color to its use in cosmetics in 1986, that there were almost no references on the use of color in cosmetics. Now that he has picked up a bit of insight, he shares it with people just entering the field. There are four dimensions to selecting colors for cosmetics, he explains: regulations, stability, color aesthetics, and economics. Other topics include measuring color and testing pigments, surface treated pigments, natural colorants, and some slices of life."

— Eithne O'Leyne
Annotation © Book News Inc., Portland, OR,

"Edwin B. Faulkner's book is what make-up creators were waiting for. It is aimed at all colour formulators from the world of cosmetics, from students who are in the early stages of specialisation and could do with gaining a sure grasp of every aspect of the trade, to seasoned professionals who can refer to the book to check exact details.

Until the publication of this book there was no such work in this field, improbable as that may seem. The intensely competitive nature of the cosmetics industry meant all employees were strictly bound to keep trade secrets. This book could only have been written by a veteran of the industry, who has supplied all of the global brands and has a trans-disciplinary and expert vision of colour cosmetics.

Coloring the Cosmetic World has become an essential reference book containing all of the existing knowledge on the subject.

The void has, then, been filled in imperious fashion by Edwin B. Faulkner, who gives us the benefit of the experience that he has amassed over the years. He clearly presents and illustrates each of the aspects of the profession, for pigments and for colour effects, covering regulations, chemical descriptions, economic aspects, measurements and assessment of tints, surface treatments and so on. Everyone will find information in this book to help their daily work or fuel their passion.

All make-up formulators will be touched by Chapter 12, which features a tribute to the many suppliers whose names we no longer hear. Finally, the short life lessons are so true and international that everyone will appreciate them.

Bravo, bravo! This book had to be written, for all cosmetic colouring specialists. Edwin Faulkner has risen to the challenge."

— Helene de Clermont–Gallerande
Make-Up Research & Development Laboratory Manager
Chanel PB

"Coloring the Cosmetic World is an invaluable resource for anyone involved in the development or manufacture of pigmented cosmetics. Formulators, analytical chemists, quality control chemists, and manufacturing personnel will all benefit from the information in this new book. Ed Faulkner's forty years' experience in both the manufacture of pigments and the commercial aspects have given him an extraordinary breadth of knowledge that he shares with readers.

The background and the current status of the regulations covering cosmetic colorants, a worldwide concern for personal care marketers, are thoroughly covered. Sections on the chemistry, physical properties, and stability of the approved colorants explain the reasons and methodology for color choice in a range of applications. The practical chapter on wetting and dispersion should be required reading for anyone preparing a pigmented product from development scale to full production. Methodology for quality evaluation of pigments, including concepts and specific test methods can be utilized for research and development and quality control purposes.

Chapters on specialty pigments and post-treatments provide insight into how the variety of options beyond straight colors have came into existence and from where future developments may arise.

Finally, there is a practical resource covering cosmetic pigments under one cover."

— Jane Hollenberg, JCH Consulting

"Could one imagine a fascinating, puzzling journey into the jungle of colors used in cosmetics, so charming that you are brought to read it in one gulp, including the tables and the methodology details? In Coloring the Cosmetic World, Edwin Faulkner leads us on an enchanting adventure, where the special cosmetic category of pigments is fully described.

The author takes a multi-sided approach, exactly like a formulator of color cosmetics should do. First, he describes the identity of the color ingredients from a definition point of view, followed by their chemical composition, disclosing all structures, which in turn support the next aspect to hurdle: stability. Faulkner's discussion of stability is rendered as a compendium of direct experiences in the field together with a clear explanation of "why X could happen". The aesthetics of color selection are then described, which underlines to my eyes that color cosmetics are a form of creative art, and like any art form they combine technology with pleasure and communication. But the book continues to challenge our attention: it tells us how to get the maximum from our color materials; in other words, it teaches us the art of obtaining a masterful dispersion of pigments, avoiding the common traps and getting an optimum result. All that without the implication of mathematical formulae. Can an artist be unconnected with money? Even Michelangelo had his own accountancy booklet! In all the chapters, the economic considerations of pigment selection accompany the description of technical advantages of an ingredient or a process. Also, when color quality evaluations are described, the explanations are simple and attention-catching.

The book ends with two opposite overlooks: the recent present, signified by surface treated pigments and special pigments, as well as a very illuminating look at the gathered experience of the author, which presents his past journeys in the "cosmetic villages" of the modern industry and encourages us to dream of trying something similar.

One final point that the entire book is filled with tables, schema, and references that all serve as orientation maps through the scope of the book. Have a good reading!"

— Luigi M. Rigano, PhD
Director of Rigano Industrial Consulting & Research
Director of ISPE Laboratories, Milano

Customer Reviews

Customer Reviews
Priscila Amin
A very interesting and useful tool for my International Purchasing Department.
Mario Benzi
Definitely an interesting review of the colorants used in cosmetics.
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