Allured Books

Active ingredient research advances quickly and you can't afford to miss the next active principle that could make that new product a blockbuster. This compilation of articles from Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine provides a look at the cutting-edge of active ingredient and testing methodology research.

Biologically Active Ingredients explains what is known about specific active ingredients used by formulating chemists from the manufacturing industry and even explains how a certain type of mechanism or the efficacy of an active ingredient is measured. This compilation is a must-have for chemists in the development labs of both the manufacturing industry and the supplier industry!

• Section 1 Introduction
• Section 1.1 What Is an Active?
• CHAPTER 1—Cosmeceutical Regulations—A Global Overview.
  • Introduction
  • Defining "Cosmeceuticals"
  • Regulations in the United States
  • Regulations in the European Union
  • Regulations in Japan
  • Conclusions
• CHAPTER 2—Searching for the Cosmeceutical Connection
  • Cosmeceutical Mechanism of Action
  • The Cosmeceutical Connection
• Section 1.2 Latest Trends in Active Ingredient Testing: Science and Regulation Aspects
• CHAPTER 3—RNA Interference and Therapeutic Applications
  • RNAi in Therapeutics
  • Challenges
• CHAPTER 4—REACH and In vitro Alternatives: Corrosive Potential Testing
  • Alternative Methods to Assess Skin Corrosion Potential
  • Section 1.3 Creating Claim Substantiation Packages with Active Ingredient Testing
• CHAPTER 5—Creating Effective Claim Support Packages
  • Developing an Ingredient Claim
  • Types of claims
  • Obtaining Data
  • Subject Criteria
  • Fifth Principle Needed?
  • Conclusion
• CHAPTER 6—Mind Over Matter: Cosmetic Claim Substantiation Issues Facing the Future
  • Cosmetic Claims
  • A Different Type of Product
  • The Mind Claim
  • Quality of Life
  • Cosmetic Examples Measuring Quality of Life
  • The Future for the Substantiation of Mind Claims
  • Conclusion
• Section 1.4 Formulation Aspects Influencing the Efficacy of Active Ingredients
• CHAPTER 7—Formulating for Efficacy
  • Theoretical Considerations for the Skin Delivery of Cosmetics
  • The Influence of Formulation Characteristics on Skin Delivery
  • Partition Coefficient Determination or Calculation
  • The Relative Polarity Index
  • Using the Relative Polarity Index in Practice
  • Skin Delivery Experiments Demonstrating Use of RPI
  • Conclusions
• CHAPTER 8—Improved Delivery and Efficacy with Dimethyl Isosorbide
  • Dimethyl Isosorbide
  • Effect of DMI on the Delivery of Hydrophilic Actives
  • Effect of DMI Added to Self-Tanning Formulations
  • Conclusions
• Section 2 Antiaging Ingredients - Mechanisms and Proof of Efficacy
• Section 2.1 Introduction to Antiaging and Antiaging Testing
• CHAPTER 9—Peptides in the Pipeline for Antiaging
  • The Patent Pipeline
• CHAPTER 10—Peptides, Amino Acids and Proteins in Skin Care
  • Definitions
  • Origin and Manufacturing
  • Amino Acids and Cosmetics
  • Amino Acids in Cosmetics
  • Peptides and Cosmetics
  • Proteins and Cosmetics
  • Conclusion
• CHAPTER 11—In Vitro Approaches to Antiaging Testing
  • Aging Skin
  • Senescent Cells
  • The p53/p21/p16ink4a Pathway
  • Senescence-associated b-galactosidase
  • Conclusions
• CHAPTER 12—It's Never Too Late: DNA Repair and Photo-aging
  • Photo-aging and Wrinkling
  • Molecular Mechanisms of Photo-aging
  • DNA Repair Enzymes and Delivery by Liposomes
  • Cell Culture
  • Artificial Skin Model
  • Clinical Study
  • MMP-1 Gene Expression in Irradiated Fibroblasts
  • Signaling Between Skin Cells
  • MMP-1 Gene Expression in Artificial Skin
  • Clinical Study
  • Conclusions
• Section 2.2 Antiaging via DNA Protection
• CHAPTER 13—Mutations in Mitochondrial DNA as Principal Aging Factor
  • Structure and Function of Mitochondria
  • Reactive Oxygen Species in Aerobic Metabolism
  • Activity of Coenzyme Q10
  • Mechanisms in Premature Skin Aging
  • Study on UV-induced mtDNA Mutations in Fibroblasts
• CHAPTER 14—Protecting Skin from UV Oxidative Stress with a New (Cys-Gly)2 Dimer Peptide
  • Materials and Methods
  • Results and Discussion
  • Conclusion
• CHAPTER 15—Modeling UVB-induced Formation of Photoproducts in Human Keratinocytes
  • Visualization of CPD by Immunocytofluorescence
  • Semiquantification of CPD by Dot Blot
  • Study of the Effect of Cotton Extract on Formation of CPD
  • Conclusion
• CHAPTER 16—Protecting the Genome of Skin Cells from Oxidative Stress and Photoaging
  • Overview of DNA and the Genome
  • DNA Damage and Repair
  • A New Active Against Photoaging
  • Methods
  • Results
  • Conclusion
• CHAPTER 17—A DNA Repair Complex to Decrease Erythema and UV-induced CPD Formation
  • Materials and Methods
  • Results
  • Discussion and Conclusion
• CHAPTER 18—Watermelon Survival Strategies for Skin DNA Protection
• Section 2.3 Antiaging via Oxidation Prevention
• CHAPTER 19—Measuring Reactive Oxygen Species in Skin with Fluorescence Microscopy
  • Skin Aging and ROS
  • Protecting Against ROS
  • Two-photon Fluorescence Microscopy
  • Conclusion
• CHAPTER 20—Antioxidant Inhibits UV Erythema In vivo in Humans
  • Materials and Methods
  • Results and Discussion
  • Conclusion
• Section 2.4 Antiaging via Upregulation Skin Biochemistry
• CHAPTER 21—Sirtuins: A Breakthrough in Antiaging Research
  • The Role of Sirtuins
  • Sirtuin Expression in Human Skin
  • STACS and Cellular Longevity
  • Sirtuins in the Cell Cycle
  • Protective Role of Sirtuins
  • Conclusion
• CHAPTER 22—Stimulation ofDermal and Epidermal Metabolism: An Approach to Antiaging
  • MSE and Epidermal Metabolism
  • MSE and Dermal Metabolism
  • Conclusion
• CHAPTER 23—Biomimetic Tripeptides for Improved Dermal Transport
  • Palm-Lys-Val-Lys-OH
  • In vitro Efficacy
  • In vivo Efficacy
  • H-beta-Ala-Pro-Dab-NH-benzyl diacetate
  • In vitro Efficacy
  • In vivo Efficacy
  • Conclusions
• CHAPTER 24—Examining an Exfoliation-Promoting Enzyme for Cosmetic Applications
  • Introduction
  • Proteases and Exfoliation of Keratinized Cells
  • Proteases in the SC
  • Proteases in Facial Cleansers
  • A Cross-Linking Subtilisin Polymer in Skin Care
  • Safety
  • Efficacy
  • Stability
  • Searching for Stabilizing Ingredients
  • Conclusion
• CHAPTER 25—Perfluoropolyether Phosphate and Skin Renewal: The Therapeutic Index
  • Skin Renewal
  • Materials and Methods
  • Results
  • Discussion
  • Conclusions
• CHAPTER 26—Tetrapeptide Targets Epidermal Cohesion
  • Syndecan-1
  • Type XVII Collagen
  • N-Acteyl-tetrapeptide-11
  • In vitro Efficacy
  • Results
  • In vivo Efficacy
  • Conclusions
• Section 2.5 Antiaging via Downregulation Skin Biochemistry
• CHAPTER 27—Systemic Evening Primrose Oil for Irritated Skin Care
  • Materials and Methods
  • Measurements
  • Results
  • Discussion and Conclusions
• Section 3 Active Ingredients Influencing Skin Color
• Section 3.1 Skin Whiteners
• CHAPTER 28—All's Fair in the Indian Fairness Market
  • The Indian Fairness Market
  • Indian Fairness Products
  • Achieving Fairness
  • All's Fair
• CHAPTER 29—Developing a Long-lasting Tyrosinase Inhibitor from Morus alba L
  • Identification of Mulberroside A
  • Biological Activities of Mulberroside A and Oxyresveratrol
  • Discussion
• CHAPTER 30—Skin Whitening via a Dual Biological Pathway
  • Efficacy of the Actives
  • Efficacy of the PEAS Compound
  • Conclusion
• CHAPTER 31—Inhibitory Effects of Phyllanthus emblica Tannins on Melanin Synthesis
  • Phyllanthus emblica
  • Materials
  • Methods
  • P. emblica Melanin Inhibitory Action
  • In vitro Melanin Inhibitory Activity
  • In vivo Skin Lightening Activity: Normal Skin
  • In vivo Skin Lightening Activity: Hyperpigmented Skin
  • Mechanism of Melanin Inhibitory Action of P. emblica
  • Conclusion
• CHAPTER 32—Grapefruit Extract Cream: Effects on Melanin and Skin
  • Materials
  • Preparing the Emulsion
  • Emulsion Analysis
  • Dermatological Tests
  • Melanin
  • Erythema
  • Moisture Content
  • Sebum Content
  • pH Values
  • TEWL
  • Panel Test
  • Conclusion
• Section 3.2 Self-Tanners
• CHAPTER 33—A Direct Connection to Melanocytes
  • The Discovery
  • Application
  • Testing
  • A Look Ahead
• CHAPTER 34—Self-tanning Based on Stimulation of Melanin Biosynthesis
  • Regulation of Melanin Synthesis
  • The Role of β-Endorphin in Melanin Formation
  • β-Endorphin-like Compounds in Chaste Tree Berries
  • Self-tanning with Chaste Tree Berries Extract and Acetyl Tyrosine
  • Methods and Results
  • Conclusions
• Section 4 Active Ingredients Influencing Skin Moisturization
• CHAPTER 35—An Aquaporin-inspired Lipid Concentrate for Mature Skin
  • Materials and Methods
  • In Vitro Small Angle X-ray Diffraction Studies
  • Skin Bioengineering and Skin Biopsy Clinical Design
  • Determination of Molecular Markers by Real Time PCR
  • Skin Bioengineering Tests
  • Statistical Analysis
  • Results
  • Conclusions
• CHAPTER 36—Internal Occlusion: A New Mechanism of Skin Moisturization
  • Introduction
  • Discussion
  • Conclusion
• CHAPTER 37—γ-Poly Glutamic Acid: A Novel Peptide for Skin Care
  • Characteristics of γ-PGA
  • Applications in Cosmetics
  • γ-PGA Hydrogel
  • Hair Applications
  • Conclusion
• CHAPTER 38—A New Sodium Hyaluronate for Skin Moisturization and Antiaging
  • Hyaluronic Acid
  • A New Sodium Hyaluronate
  • Moisturization Properties of SHAB
  • Antiaging Properties of SHAB
  • Discussion
  • Conclusion
• Section 5 Active Ingredients Improving the Mechanical Properties of Human Skin
• CHAPTER 39—Texture Analysis to Quantify Skin Care Product Efficacy
  • Skin Tightening Products and Their Claims
  • Indentometric Testing
  • Testing Force Versus Penetration Distance
  • Analyzing Skin Tightness
• CHAPTER 40—Wrinkle Reduction by Stimulation of the Skin's Mechanical Resistance
  • Skin Resistance Mechanisms
  • Mechano-receptors and alpha-SMA
  • Age-reduced Interaction Between Fibroblasts and the ECM
  • A Rye Extract for Increased Mechanical Resistance of Skin
  • Material and Methods
  • Results
  • Conclusion
• CHAPTER 41—Antiaging Effects of a Skin Repair Active Principle
  • The Many Levels of Aging
  • Extracted DNA to Stimulate Cell Repair
  • In vitro Tests
  • In vivo Tests
  • Conclusions
• Section 6 UV Protection by Non-Suncare Ingredients
• CHAPTER 42—Strategies of Antiaging Actives in Sunscreen Products
  • Definitions
  • Prevention of Damage
  • Treatment of UV-induced Age Symptoms
  • Formulation Issues
  • Conclusion
• CHAPTER 43—Emollients with Activity for Sun Care Applications
  • A Stabilized Canola Oil
  • Tocopherols and Phytosterols
  • Oxidation Stability
  • Protecting Unsaturated Fatty Acids against Photooxidation
  • Protective Effects on Skin Cultures In Vitro
  • Anti-inflammation Properties in a Clinical Study
  • Application Examples in Sun Care
  • Discussion and Conclusions
• Section 7 Other Biological Efficacies of Active Ingredients
• Section 7.1 Anti-Irritants & Anti-Inflammatory Agents
• CHAPTER 44—The Syngeristic Anti-irritant Effects of (-)-α-Bisabolol and Ginger
  • (-)-α- Bisabolol
  • Ginger Extract
  • (-)-α-Bisabolol and Ginger Root Extract
  • Conclusion
• CHAPTER 45—Dihydroavenanthramide D for Anti-irritant and Anti-itch
  • Three Natural Avenanthramides
  • Four Synthetic Avenanthramides
  • Materials and Methods
  • Results
  • Discussion
  • Conclusion
• Section 7.2 Slimming Actives
• CHAPTER 46—Recent Advances in Slimming Treatments
  • Skin Structure Considerations
  • Slimming Treatments
  • Recent Advances: Mesotherapy
• Section 7.3 Deodorancy
• CHAPTER 47—A Novel Strategy for Achieving Efficacy in Deodorants
  • Multifunctional Approach
  • Results
  • Performance Attributes
  • Conclusions
• Section 7.4 Biologically Active Agents in Hair Care: Hair Growth and Dandruff Actives
• CHAPTER 48—Applicability of t-Flavanone to Treat Female Pattern Baldness
  • Effect on Developmental Processes
  • Efficacy of t-Flavanone on Female Pattern Baldness
  • Conclusions
• CHAPTER 49—CLA Glutathione and Sodium DNA for Reducing Hair Loss
  • Linoleic Acid
  • Conjugated Linoleic Acid
  • Glutathione
  • CLA Glutathione
  • Sodium DNA
  • CLA Glutathione and Sodium DNA
  • CLASH-DNA In-use Test
  • Summary
• CHAPTER 50—Antidandruff Efficacy of Sodium Shale Oil Sulfonate Versus Coal Tar
  • Coal Tar
  • Sodium Shale Oil Sulfonate
  • Materials and Methods
  • Results
  • Discussion
  • Conclusion
• Section 7.5 Biologically Influencing Skin Sensory Properties
• CHAPTER 51—Cooling Agents and Skin Care Applications
  • Menthol and Mint
  • Synthetic Cooling Agents
  • Physiology of Cooling and Warming Action
  • Cooling Strength
  • Cooling Action on Skin
  • Patent Coverage of Synthetic Cooling Agents
  • Synthetic Cooling Agents in Skin Care Products
  • Conclusion
• Index

Edited by Johann W. Wiechers, PhD. A pharmacist by training, Wiechers earned his doctorate in 1989 in skin penetration enhancement at the University of Groningen, The Netherlands. Following six years at Unilever in the UK, he joined Uniqema in 1995 as skin R&D director. Wiechers owns JW Solutions, a consultancy focused on various aspects of cosmetic science, such as skin delivery, skin sensory, topical formulation design, clinical trial design, skin bioengineering and biostatistics.

Authors include:

• Mindy Goldstein
• David C. Steinberg
• Zoe Diana Draelos, MD
• Johann W. Wiechers, PhD
• Karl Lintner, PhD
• Luigi M. Rigano