Cosmetically Active Ingredients: Recent Advances

Karl Lintner, PhD

Format Details

  • Softcover
  • 539 Pages
  • Published 2011
  • ISBN-10: 1932633871
  • ISBN-13: 9781932633870
  • Description
  • Table of Contents
  • Author Information
  • Expert Review

Cosmetically Active Ingredients: Recent Advances is designed to be a practical handbook for formulators looking for the latest in active ingredients, covering everything you need to know in the following sections:

Barrier & Skin Moisturization progresses from a review of ceramides and other lipids of the cutaneous barrier to aquaporins and water-binding receptors in the deeper layers of the skin—while also investigating the process of exfoliation by which the skin‘s epidermal layer renews and rejuvenates itself.

Antiaging is divided into two subsections—Peptides and Other Concepts. The former covers how most peptides used at present are shown to have the capacity to stimulate skin repair, while further describing peptides bearing antioxidant, firming and neurocosmetic properties. The latter subsection contains many different approaches to help the skin look younger, from skin chromophore homogenization to sirtuin stimulation, from rose extracts with UV protection to stimulating metabolic processes in the cells.

Sensitive Skin & Irritation/Inflammation describes ingredients, often plant-derived, that help the skin defend itself against inflammation, irritation and other aggressors. Concepts are based on many different mechanisms, from inhibiting prostaglandin synthesis, to interesting antioxidant strategies, from DNA repair to reduction of histamine release and others.

Skin Toning contains chapters that describe skin whitening (i.e. brightening, lightening) activities to reduce melanin content in the skin, as well as discussions of what helps the skin obtain a better looking tan, either artificially, such as with DHA, or by accelerating the natural process.

Hair Care investigates innovative ingredients that improve the appearance and structure of hair. Discussions on antidandruff and on female baldness, along with a quite recent article on preventing hair loss, open up the field of biological activity.

The final section, Miscellaneous, contains papers that illustrate the fact that all kinds of ingredients in a formula may have cosmetic activity, even if they are not initially designed to be realized as actives, and offers a brief look at the importance and prevalence of ingredients for cellulite treatment—a major growth segment of the personal care industry.

    • Chapter 1: Stratum Corneum: The Role of Lipids and Ceramides
    • Chapter 2: Oral and Topical Echium Oil for Skin Benefits
    • Chapter 3: Examining an Exfoliation-promoting Enzyme for Cosmetic Applications
    • Chapter 4: An Aquaporin-inspired Lipid Concentrate for Mature Skin
    • Chapter 5: A New Sodium Hyaluronate for Skin Moisturization and Antiaging
    • Chapter 6: Improving Skin Moisturization with Polyglycerol-derived Plant Waxes
  • Section II: ANTIAGING / Part I: PEPTIDES
    • Chapter 7: Therapeutic Peptides in Aged Skin
    • Chapter 8: Peptides, Amino Acis and Proteins in Skin Care?
    • Chapter 9: Quantifying Skin Relaxation and Well-being
    • Chapter 10: Biomimetic Tripeptides for Improved Dermal Transport
    • Chapter 11: Tetrapeptide Targets Epidermal Cohesion
    • Chapter 12: New Laminin Peptide for Innovative Skin Care Cosmetics
    • Chapter 13: Searching for the Cosmeceutical Connection
    • Chapter 14: Antiaging in a Different Light: Assessing How Chromophores Color Perception
    • Chapter 15: Sirtuins: A Breakthrough in Antiaging Research
    • Chapter 16: Antiaging Benefits of French Rose Petal Extract
    • Chapter 17: Strategies of Antiaging Actives in Sunscreen Products
    • Chapter 18: Wrinkle Reduction by Stimulation of the Skin’s Mechanical Resistance
    • Chapter 19: Stimulating Epidermal Regeneration with Plant-derived Stem Cells
    • Chapter 20: New Directions for Sensitive Skin Research
    • Chapter 21: Reducing Skin Stress Response with Willow Bark-derived Salicin
    • Chapter 22: Raspberry Stem Cell Extract to Protect Skin from Inflammation and Oxidative Stress
    • Chapter 23: A DNA Repair Complex to Decrease Erythema and UV-induced CPD Formation
    • Chapter 24: Dihydroavenanthramide D for Anti-irritant and Anti-itch
    • Chapter 25: Mediating Shaving Irritation
    • Chapter 26: Antibacterial and Anti-inflammatory Effects of a Magnolia Extract
    • Chapter 27: A Medicinal Plant Blend for Soothing and Anti-inflammatory Effects
  • Section IV: SKIN TONING
    • Chapter 28: Skin-lightening Challenges
    • Chapter 29: Skin Whitening via a Dual Biological Pathway
    • Chapter 30: Inhibitory Effects of Phyllanthus emblica Tannins on Melanin Synthesis
    • Chapter 31: Formulating Sunless Tanning Products with DHA: Current Challenges
    • Chapter 32: Pisum sativum Extract for Safe- and Self-tanning
    • Chapter 33: Self-tanning Based on Stimulation of Melanin Biosynthesis
  • Section V: HAIR CARE
    • Chapter 34: Certifying Hair Product Claims
    • Chapter 35: A Diester to Protect Hair from Color Fade and Sun Damage
    • Chapter 36: Hair and Amino Acids
    • Chapter 37: Targeting the Hair Follicle Basement Membrane to Improve Growth Conditions In vitro
    • Chapter 38: Applicability of t-Flavanone to Treat Female Pattern Baldness
    • Chapter 39: Protecting the Hair with Natural Keratin Bipolymers
    • Chapter 40: Antidandruff Efficacy of Sodium Shale Oil Sulfonate Versus Coal Tar
    • Chapter 41: Fragrance with Antiaging Benefits
    • Chapter 42: Stabilized Solutions of Zinc Coceth Sulfate for Skin Cleansing and Skin Care
    • Chapter 43: Cellulite: Evolving Technologies to Fight the ‘Orange Peel’ Battle
  • Index

Edited by Karl Lintner, PhD. Karl is an independent consultant to the cosmetics industry, whose previous positions within the industry include technical director and managing director at Sederma, and most recently as technical advisor to Enterprise Technology/CRODA. Lintner earned a degree in chemical engineering and a doctorate in biochemistry from Vienna University. Subsequently, he engaged in 10 years of research in biological peptides at the Nuclear Research Centre in Saclay, France, yielding more than 30 published studies in biochemistry and biophysics. Karl has filed several dozen patents, published numerous articles and book chapters on cosmetic ingredients, edited a book on regulatory issues, and presently sits on the boards of the Société Française de Cosmétologie (SFC), Cosmetic Valley and the European Federation for Cosmetic Ingredients (EFfCL). Recipient of numerous awards during his tenure with Sederma, he was a finalist for the In-Cosmetics Lifetime Achievement Award in 2010.

Authors include:

  • Nava Dayan
  • Karl Lintner, PhD
  • Hugo Ziegler
  • Zoe Diana Draelos, MD
  • Daniel Schmid
  • Peter D. Kaplan, PhD
  • Timothy Gao, PhD
  • Luigi Rigano

"The invention, development and testing of cosmetic active ingredients to improve the appearance of skin and hair has advanced rapidly over the past few years. In the quest towards evidence-based cosmetics, there is an increase in research into skin physiology, as well as sophisticated active technologies and testing methods to demonstrate cosmetic activity in clinical trials. This book, containing a thoughtful collection of articles edited by one of the greatest experts in the area of anti-aging, Dr. Karl Lintner, is an essential read for formulators who want to broaden their knowledge about innovative and traditional active ingredients in skin care and hair care. It is a practical handbook that reviews recent research into cosmetic ingredients with specific (physiological or biophysical) activity on skin and hair. Guided by Lintner’s expertise, the definition of cosmetic actives is discussed and clarified to have a measurable and beneficial activity on skin rather than attractiveness from a marketing point of view. The reader follows a logical path from the stratum corneum structure and its barrier function to the renewal process of exfoliation and anti-aging that deals with stimulation of skin repair. There are sections related to sensitive skin and plant actives with different strategies to resolve inflammation, irritation and external aggressors, as well as a review of skin toning, self-tanning and hair care ingredients that improve hair structure and appearance. Starting with an educational review in each chapter, Lintner presents the essence of the most interesting and relevant research in these areas. Reading this book gives us a unique opportunity to view the world of actives through the eyes of a cosmetic expert and to see cosmetics as a holistic synthesis of product quality and efficacy with a sensory impact on our well-being."

— Katerina Steventon MSc. PhD.
Independent Skincare Consultant, FaceWorkshops

"Reprinted from Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine over the past six or so years, 43 articles describe or review research concerning ingredients designed for cosmetic applications and their specific cosmetic activities. They are arranged in sections on barrier and skin moisturization, peptides and other concepts for anti-aging, sensitive skin and irritation/inflammation, skin toning, hair care, and miscellaneous. Among the topics are improving skin moisturization with polyglycerol-derived plant waxes, quantifying skin relaxation and well-being, strategies of anti-aging activities in sunscreen products, reducing skin stress response with salicin derived from willow bark, skin lightening challenges, the anti-dandruff efficacy of sodium shale oil sulfonate versus coal tar, and fragrance with anti-aging benefits."

— Eithne O'Leyne
Annotation © Book News Inc., Portland, OR,

"There are many books that describe cosmetic actives, but unfortunately most of them are as coherent as sand. This book, however, harvested from papers published recently in Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine, is different. Karl Lintner, PhD, progenitor and champion of peptide use in cosmetics, has succeeded in bringing a coherent structure to a seemingly disparate collection of research studies. He has divided the actives into different claim areas that are grouped by the location of their action: from the outer stratum corneum to the inner viable layers. Extremely useful are the academic review chapters that provide coherency in the individual sections; in this way, one has a complete overview—from the medical background of the issue to be tackled to the chemical answer of how to address the issue. Focused on providing sound solutions to questions and issues of active ingredient use, Cosmetically Active Ingredients: Recent Advances is truly a book that you cannot afford to miss."

—Johann W. Wiechers, PhD
Independent Consultant for Cosmetic Science, JW Solutions
Technical Advisor, Allured Books

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