Formulating Strategies in Cosmetic Science

Anthony J. O'Lenick Jr.

Format Details

  • Softcover
  • 807 Pages
  • Published 2009
  • ISBN-10: 1932633529
  • ISBN-13: 9781932633528
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  • Description
  • Table of Contents
  • Author Information
  • Expert Reviews

Cosmetic science is a constantly evolving, ever-changing world. Changes come from consumer preferences, but they are always flavored by chemistry, formulating, regulatory and legal disciplines. The formulation of consumer acceptable, high performance personal care products is one of the most challenging undertakings for a chemist. The industry has undergone a metamorphosis in recent years, and the challenge of adapting one's methodology to this evolution pervades every aspect of cosmetic science application.

Chemists must keep up to date with the available technology to respond to the new market needs. This includes not only formulating techniques, but basic science. Armed with the proper knowledge, raw materials become formulator-friendly and formulations become multifunctional. Topics include:

  • Preservatives
  • Emulsions
  • Sunscreens
  • Hair Care
  • Polymer/Physical Chemistry
  • Skin Care
  • Green Chemistry
  • Formulating Tips
  • Introduction
  • Section I: Preservatives
    • The Safety Factor in Preservative Efficacy Testing
    • The Labeling of Fragrance Allergens in the European Union
    • Natural Preservatives
    • Frequency of Use of Preservatives 2003
    • The "Period After Opening" in the Jungle of EU Product Labeling
    • Water Activity
    • Natural Preservation from Concepts in Nature
  • Section II: Emulsions
    • Soap: Our Old Friend and Great Emulsifier
    • Refractive Index Matching: Principles and Cosmetic Applications
    • Choosing Thickening Agents for Emulsions, Part I: Water Phase Thickeners
    • New Emulsion Technology Makes Formulation Easy
    • Correlation of Long-term Physical Stability of Emulsions with the Short-term Rheological Measurements
    • Stablizing Nanodispersions in Personal Care and Cosmetic Applications
      Note: This chapter is listed in the Table of Contents but excluded from the book. Click on the link above to download the original article.
    • Particle-Stabililzed Emulsions: A Brief Overview
    • Evaluating a "New" Emulsifier
    • Optimizing Your Emulsion to Meet Marketing Requirements
    • Rationalizing and Producing Nanoemulsions for Personal Care
    • Effect of Oil Type on Stability of W/O/W Emulsions
    • Preparing PIC Emulsions with a Very Fine Particle Size
  • Section III: Sunscreen
    • Pigments as Photoprotectants
    • Improved Delivery and Efficacy with Dimethyl Isosorbide
    • Film-Formers Enhance Water Resistance and SPF in Sun Care Products
    • Preservation of Sunscreen Products
    • Photostability: The Back Story of UV Filters
    • Stopping the Sun
  • Section IV: Hair Care
    • Shampoo Formulation: The Basics
    • Extending the Hair Care Line with Fragrance
    • New Shampoo Technologies: Between the Shock Waves
    • Deposition from Conditioning Shampoo: Optimizing Coacervate Formation
    • Hair and Amino Acids
  • Section V: Raw Materials
  • Section VI: Underarm
    • Underarm Technical Review: Consumer Drivers
    • Linear Polyethylenes and Long-Chain Alcohols in Underarm Sticks and Soft Solids
  • Section VII: Skin Care
    • Makeup Powders Preservation and Water Activity
    • The Color Game, No Easy Feat
    • Correlating Water Contact Angles and Moisturization
    • Cream in Powder Form: A New Concept in Makeup
    • Blush Just Got Smarter
    • Hyperbranched Polyalphaolefins Enhance Anhydrous Stick Formulations
    • Formulating Scrubs
  • Section VIII: Polymer/Physical Chemistry
    • A Brief Review of Polymer/Surfactant Interaction
    • A New Dimension in Hairstyling—VP/Methacrylamide/Vinyl Imidazole Copolymer
    • Enhancing the Feel of Vegetable Oils with Silicone
    • Reducing Odiferous Volatiles with Zeolites
    • Selecting Silicone Surfactants for Personal Care Formulations
    • Anionic/Cationic Complexes
    • Amphoteric Anionic Interactions
    • Going to a Wetting
    • Properties of Surfactants: Wetting
  • Section IX: Formulating Tips
    • Formulating for Efficacy
  • Section X: Specials
    • A Dermatologic View: Effects of Occlusion (II): Wound Healing
    • Personal Care Wipes: Manufacturing Practices & Microbiological Control
  • Section XI: Sensory
    • How Sensory Evaluation Can Provide Development Direction: An Approach
    • Linking Sensory and Rheology Characteristics
    • Significant Statistical Differences in Sensory Research
    • Using Consumers’ Sensory Experience to Achieve Strategic Market Segmentation
  • Section XII: Delivery
    • Delivery Review: Looking at Liposomes
  • Section XIII: Infant Care Products
    • Formulating Infant Skin Care Products
    • A Discussion on Emulsifiers for Baby Products
    • Emerging Technologies for Cosmetic and Personal Care Wipes
    • Wipes: Recently Disclosed Intellectual Property
    • Formatting for Children’s Sensitive Skin
  • Section XIV: Green Chemistry
    • Petrolatum and Vegetable-Based Alternatives in Natural Cosmetics
    • Navigating the Challenges of Formulating with Naturals
    • Organic Cosmetic Standards: A New Formulation Challenge
    • Green Formulations: Not All Components are Equal
  • Section XV: Regulations
    • Getting Ready for REACH
    • (Re)Formulating within REACH with Formulating from First Principles
  • Index

Anthony J. O'Lenick, Jr., has more than 30 years of experience in innovative personal care ingredients. He is president of Siltech LLC, a company he founded in 1989, specializing in functional silicones and specialty surfactants. O'Lenick has five published books, more than 40 technical articles and is the inventor of more than 260 patents.

Other books published by this author/editor:

“[Formulating Strategies in Cosmetic Science] organized by XV sections divided in 71 different chapters, give to formulators all the technical information necessary to expand their knowledge on the science and art of personal care, from raw materials to regulations…”

Read the full review from the Journal of Applied Cosmetology.

—P. Morganti
Editor in Chief
Journal of Applied Cosmetology

"This informative collection provides cosmetic technology professionals with invaluable knowledge from well-known industry experts."

—Rachel Chapman
Senior Editor
Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine

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