Practical Modern Hair Science

Trefor Evans and R. Randall Wickett

Format Details

  • Hardcover
  • 562 Pages
  • Published 2012
  • ISBN-13: 9781932633931
  • Description
  • Table of Contents
  • Author Information
  • Expert Reviews

Practical Modern Hair Science is the definitive guide for translating hair science into practical application. This is not just a reference book. It will not collect dust on your shelf - you will USE this book.

This book includes the underlying fundamental science of hair while recognizing that the ultimate reason for acquiring this knowledge relates to creating successful products and meeting the needs of the consumer. It covers long-standing subjects and current issues in hair care including heat protection, shine, hold and color intensity and retention. It respects historical literature, while drawing attention to recent learning—combining tried-and-true science with cutting-edge innovation.

Where else can you find a multitude of hair topics drawn from decades of hands-on experience, condensed and critically assessed in fifteen chapters?

Topics include:

  • Keratin physics
  • Hair follicle cycling
  • Polymer-surfactant interactions
  • Polyquaternium polymers
  • Amniosilicones
  • Ammonium as alkalizer in coloring
  • Rates of coupling in dye formation
  • Reducing agents and oxidizing agents in shaping
  • Amino acid analysis to measure disulfide bond reformation
  • Sodium bisulfate to create permanent wave
  • Growth patterns and chemical structures among different ethnicities
  • Stress-strain experiments
  • Effect of relative humidity
  • Weibull distribution in fatigue testing
  • And more!

Practical Modern Hair Science contains original contributions demonstrating a practical approach to understanding the science behind your formulations.

The impressive ensemble of authors including the editors, Randall Wickett and Trefor Evans, were selected for their years of experience and significant expertise. Noted pioneers, teachers and trend-setters such as Alan Swift, Jennifer Marsh, Robert Lochhead, Roger McMullen, Crisan Popescu, Tom Dawson, and others share an in-depth, detailed examination of the most important aspects of hair science.

Trefor Evans, PhD, has spent more than 20 years in the hair care industry, working primarily in the product development labs of Helene Curtis and Unilever. He is presently Director of Measurement Services at TRI-Princeton. During his time in the consumer goods industry, he supported the development, launch, and maintenance of many international hair care products and brands across virtually all categories. In his current role at TRI, he is the first point of contact for clients looking to utilize the services of the Institute. His daily activities involve partnering with a wide variety of companies from the hair care arena to provide contract testing, contract research, and consulting services. In addition, he also organizes, facilitates, and teaches TRI's two annual hair training classes. He has authored numerous articles in peer-reviewed journals and trade magazines, and his research activities have twice been recognized by the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, earning Evans both the Caudelli and Shaw Mudge Awards.

Robert Lochhead presently serves as principal investigator of the NSF funded Multinational Partnership to Incite Innovation, and as director of the School of Polymers and High Performance Materials at the University of Southern Mississippi. He has chaired the Department of Polymer Science since 1993 and raised it to School status. Prior to this, his industrial career spanned 25 years with companies such as Unilever Research and BF Goodrich, where he spent more than a decade in the Specialty Polymer and Chemicals Division. Author of more than 300 scientific papers and owner of 22 patents, Dr. Lochhead has served as president of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists (1994 and 2010), and was the 2000 recipient of the Maison G. De Navarre Medal and SCC National Merit Award, 2006. Dr. Lochhead also serves on the INCI committee.

Jennifer M. Marsh is a Research Fellow in the Beauty Technology Division at The Procter & Gamble Company. She holds a degree in Chemistry from Magdalen College, University of Oxford, and a PhD in synthetic inorganic chemistry from Wolfson College, University of Oxford. She has fourteen years' experience in the development of new oxidative chemistries and hair quality technologies for hair color and is now a senior technologist in hair care. She is a member of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists and has published 10 papers and 13 patents in the areas of hair color and hair care.

Roger L. McMullen, PhD, is currently Senior Research Scientist in the Materials Science Department at Ashland Specialty Ingredients. He earned a Bachelor in Chemistry from Saint Vincent College in 1996 and a PhD in Biophysical Chemistry from Seton Hall University in 2005. Roger has more than 15 years' experience in the personal care industry. He actively speaks at many international conferences and is the primary author of more than 25 peer-reviewed book chapters and journal articles. For the past five years, he has been editor of Cosmetiscope, the monthly periodical of the New York Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists. He is also an adjunct professor at Farleigh Dickinson University, where he teaches biochemistry in the Cosmetic Science Master's program. Prior to pursuing a career in science, Roger served in the US Navy on board the vessel, USS Yorktown (Cg 48).

Crisan Popescu was born in Lugoj, Romania. He studied chemistry at the Technical University "Ghe.Asachi" in Iasi, Romania, and at the Textile Engineering Institute (today Donghua University) in Shanghai, graduating as an engineer of textile chemistry. He received his doctorate in chemistry from the University of Bucharest. In 1995 he became professor of textile chemistry at University "Aurel Vlaicu" in Arad, Romania. Since 2001, he has been a scientist at the DWI at RWTH Aachen University in Germany, working on keratins, and has since 2004 been an invited professor of wool chemistry at the University of High Alsace, Mulhouse, France. His fields of interest include biopolymers, the physics and chemistry of keratins, thermal analysis, and the kinetics of solid state reactions.

Alan Swift earned both a Bachelor of Science in Chemistry and a PhD in Textiles from the University of Leeds, England. He worked for Unilever Research in the United Kingdom for 32 years where he became section manager and senior scientist. Since 1994 he has engaged in consultancy work for major international hair toiletry companies. He has published more than 90 journal papers, book chapters, and monographs, mainly concerned with the chemistry, structure, and physical properties of human hair. Awards for his work have included both the Joseph P. Ciaudelli and Literature awards of the US Society of Cosmetic Chemists and an IFSCC award for best conference paper. He is currently an honorary member of staff in the Faculty of Materials at the University of Manchester, England.

R. Randall Wickett, professor of Pharmaceutics and Cosmetic Science at the University of Cincinnati’s James L. Winkle College of Pharmacy, earned his PhD in Biophysics from Oregon State University in 1972 and was a postdoctoral Fellow at the University of Minnesota from 1972 to 1974. Thereafter, he worked at The Procter & Gamble Company from 1974 to 1985, performing basic and applied research on skin and hair. In 1985 he moved to the SC Johnson Company where he was in charge of clinical and biophysical testing of skin and hair care products. In 1991 he joined the University of Cincinnati. Wickett has authored more than 100 scientific publications and several patents, and has given more than 100 invited presentations. He is a Fellow of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists (SCC) and has received numerous technical awards from the SCC including the Maison G. de Navarre Medal Award, the SCC’s highest honor for technical achievement. He was editor of the Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists from 1991 to 1997 and past president of the SCC.

Yuhang Zhang, PhD, is assistant professor of Pharmaceutics and Dermatology at the University of Cincinnati's Winkle College of Pharmacy, prior to which he was senior research investigator in the Departments of Dermatology and Cell and Developmental Biology at the University of Pennsylvania. He has earned Bachelor's and Master's degrees in Applied Microbiology from Nanjing Agricultural University, in Nanjing, China, and a PhD in Molecular Biology and Bioengineering from South China University of Technology, in Guangzhou, China. His research interests include the genetic and epigenetic programs implicated in skin tissue homeostasis and how skin epithelial keratinocytes, melanocytes, and dermal fibroblasts respond to various external cues to coordinate changes in transcription, cell polarity, and adhesion. Zhang has been recognized as the 2011 Next Generation Biomedical Investigator by the Center of Environmental Genetics, University of Cincinnati, and is a member of the Society for Investigative Dermatology, American Association of College of Pharmacy, and the Society for Melanoma Research.

"Editors and contributors Evans (measurement, TGI-Princeton) and Wickett (pharmaceutics and cosmetic science, U. of Cincinnati) present the newest works on hair science ranging from the chemistry of hair coloring to detailed considerations of hair structure and properties. Additional focuses provided by leading experts include: medical conditions affecting hair, conditioner and shampoo science, changing the shape and mechanical properties of hair, visual properties of hair and advances in hair styling. While very scientific in nature, these works hold practical uses and explain the science behind cosmetics industry and hair care practices."

— Eithne O'Leyne
Annotation © Book News Inc., Portland, OR,

"Practical Modern Hair Science is a great addition to any cosmetic science book shelf and a must-read for someone focused on hair care product formulation. The book is written by a variety of authors that includes an impressive list of academic authors and industry experts. It is a bit more “heady” than many other cosmetic science books and is focused more on the scientific background of the subject than on practical applications. But if you are looking for the perfect primer for a hair care product scientist, this could be it.

The first two chapters describe in detail the biology of hair. In chapter one, the current understanding of hair structure is presented. I found the focus on amino acid distribution and tying it into biochemistry particularly interesting. The second chapter goes into great detail about the growth cycle of hair. It provides excellent background information for anyone interested in working on hair growth/thickening products.

The next three chapters delve into the chemistry of different types of hair products. Chapter three gives a great overview of shampoos and does an excellent job of covering the pertinent issues related to surfactants. Conditioners are also covered in this chapter but not as thoroughly as cleansing surfactants. In chapter four, the science of hair color is nicely reviewed complete with chemical reactions and even some formulations. This is a must-read chapter for anyone interested in formulating hair color products. The fifth chapter gives a great overview of the chemistry of changing the shape of hair. This includes permanent curls and relaxer products.

Chapter six provides a great review of ethnic differences in hair. This will be helpful to any formulator who is creating products for different parts of the world. The only issue with this chapter is its sequential placement in the table of contents; it may make more sense for the reader to flip forward and include it with the other hair biology chapters.

The next four chapters describe testing and physical parameters of hair fibers. Chapters seven and eight go into detail about the mechanical properties of hair including information about hair strength and breakage. The physics behind the behavior of the fibers can be a bit complicated, but the authors do a good job of keeping it meaningful to cosmetic formulators. These chapters will be of great help to formulators who are developing test protocols for claims and prototype evaluations. Chapter nine gives a detailed description of how to evaluate and quantify visual properties of hair. And chapter ten gives you everything you would ever want to know about the adsorption of materials onto hair.

Chapter eleven does a good job of covering the causes of hair damage, including a discussion of pH effects, water swelling, temperature, and reactive chemical exposure. In the next two chapters, the book jumps back to products for the hair. Chapter twelve covers the topic of dandruff in detail with a particular focus on the causes and biology of the condition. Chapter thirteen gives a great overview of hair styling products and polymers.

Chapter fourteen is a particularly interesting one as it describes all the changes that can be expected in hair as it ages. While much of this may be viewed as trivia, the information should be able to help formulators create products that are age appropriate.

The final chapter discusses hair care claims and provides a detailed description of the types of tests that can be run to substantiate claims about frizz, shine, strength, color retention and more. It will be helpful in the later stages of product development in addition to claims substantiation. An excellent finish to the book.

In conclusion, Practical Modern Hair Science provides a great overview of the subject of hair science. It is written in an understandable way and covers the relevant topics in excellent detail. It is also packed with references which make further research into any of these topics much easier. Overall, a great addition to any cosmetic science library."

— Perry Romanowski, President of Element 44, Inc.

Customer Reviews

Customer Reviews
Valcini Bedin
This is a very special reference book, especially for those who are teaching cosmetics and hair science. It helped me to prepare my lectures and has given me the information that puts me in a higher stage than my colleagues. If you are involved in hair science, no matter your background, I strongly recommend this book.
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