Practical Modern Hair Science is the definitive guide for translating hair science into practical application. This is not just a reference book. It will not collect dust on your shelf - you will USE this book.
This book includes the underlying fundamental science of hair while recognizing that the ultimate reason for acquiring this knowledge relates to creating successful products and meeting the needs of the consumer. It covers long-standing subjects and current issues in hair care including heat protection, shine, hold and color intensity and retention. It respects historical literature, while drawing attention to recent learning—combining tried-and-true science with cutting-edge innovation.
Where else can you find a multitude of hair topics drawn from decades of hands-on experience, condensed and critically assessed in fifteen chapters?
- Keratin physics
- Hair follicle cycling
- Polymer-surfactant interactions
- Polyquaternium polymers
- Ammonium as alkalizer in coloring
- Rates of coupling in dye formation
- Reducing agents and oxidizing agents in shaping
- Amino acid analysis to measure disulfide bond reformation
- Sodium bisulfate to create permanent wave
- Growth patterns and chemical structures among different ethnicities
- Stress-strain experiments
- Effect of relative humidity
- Weibull distribution in fatigue testing
- And more!
Practical Modern Hair Science contains original contributions demonstrating a practical approach to understanding the science behind your formulations.
The impressive ensemble of authors including the editors, Randall Wickett and Trefor Evans, were selected for their years of experience and significant expertise. Noted pioneers, teachers and trend-setters such as Alan Swift, Jennifer Marsh, Robert Lochhead, Roger McMullen, Crisan Popescu, Tom Dawson, and others share an in-depth, detailed examination of the most important aspects of hair science.
"Editors and contributors Evans (measurement, TGI-Princeton) and Wickett (pharmaceutics and cosmetic science, U. of Cincinnati) present the newest
works on hair science ranging from the chemistry of hair coloring to detailed considerations of hair structure and properties. Additional focuses provided
by leading experts include: medical conditions affecting hair, conditioner and shampoo science, changing the shape and mechanical properties of hair, visual
properties of hair and advances in hair styling. While very scientific in nature, these works hold practical uses and explain the science behind
cosmetics industry and hair care practices."
— Eithne O'Leyne
Annotation © Book News Inc., Portland, OR, www.booknews.com
"Practical Modern Hair Science is a great addition to any cosmetic science book shelf and a must-read for someone focused on hair care product formulation. The book is written by a variety of authors that includes an impressive list of academic authors and industry experts. It is a bit more “heady” than many other cosmetic science books and is focused more on the scientific background of the subject than on practical applications. But if you are looking for the perfect primer for a hair care product scientist, this could be it.
The first two chapters describe in detail the biology of hair. In chapter one, the current understanding of hair structure is presented. I found the focus on amino acid distribution and tying it into biochemistry particularly interesting. The second chapter goes into great detail about the growth cycle of hair. It provides excellent background information for anyone interested in working on hair growth/thickening products.
The next three chapters delve into the chemistry of different types of hair products. Chapter three gives a great overview of shampoos and does an excellent job of covering the pertinent issues related to surfactants. Conditioners are also covered in this chapter but not as thoroughly as cleansing surfactants. In chapter four, the science of hair color is nicely reviewed complete with chemical reactions and even some formulations. This is a must-read chapter for anyone interested in formulating hair color products. The fifth chapter gives a great overview of the chemistry of changing the shape of hair. This includes permanent curls and relaxer products.
Chapter six provides a great review of ethnic differences in hair. This will be helpful to any formulator who is creating products for different parts of the world. The only issue with this chapter is its sequential placement in the table of contents; it may make more sense for the reader to flip forward and include it with the other hair biology chapters.
The next four chapters describe testing and physical parameters of hair fibers. Chapters seven and eight go into detail about the mechanical properties of hair including information about hair strength and breakage. The physics behind the behavior of the fibers can be a bit complicated, but the authors do a good job of keeping it meaningful to cosmetic formulators. These chapters will be of great help to formulators who are developing test protocols for claims and prototype evaluations. Chapter nine gives a detailed description of how to evaluate and quantify visual properties of hair. And chapter ten gives you everything you would ever want to know about the adsorption of materials onto hair.
Chapter eleven does a good job of covering the causes of hair damage, including a discussion of pH effects, water swelling, temperature, and reactive chemical exposure. In the next two chapters, the book jumps back to products for the hair. Chapter twelve covers the topic of dandruff in detail with a particular focus on the causes and biology of the condition. Chapter thirteen gives a great overview of hair styling products and polymers.
Chapter fourteen is a particularly interesting one as it describes all the changes that can be expected in hair as it ages. While much of this may be viewed as trivia, the information should be able to help formulators create products that are age appropriate.
The final chapter discusses hair care claims and provides a detailed description of the types of tests that can be run to substantiate claims about frizz, shine, strength, color retention and more. It will be helpful in the later stages of product development in addition to claims substantiation. An excellent finish to the book.
In conclusion, Practical Modern Hair Science provides a great overview of the subject of hair science. It is written in an understandable way and covers the relevant topics in excellent detail. It is also packed with references which make further research into any of these topics much easier. Overall, a great addition to any cosmetic science library."
— Perry Romanowski, President of Element 44, Inc.