Formulating Natural Cosmetics: An Encyclopedia of Ingredients

Anthony C. Dweck

Format Details

  • Hardcover -
  • 673 Pages
  • Published 2010
  • ISBN-13: 9781932633757
  • Description
  • Table of Contents
  • Author Information
  • Expert Review

This reference provides a concise overview for both formulator and marketer of much of the chemistry of the natural world—the materials that inspire and aid the discovery of new product concepts and markets. This volume looks at the entire portfolio of natural raw materials and explains in simple terms the chemistry, the folklore and traditional uses that nature has provided.

For the first time, information has been assembled on almost 300 fixed oils, 200 essential oils and 600 botanical extracts, making this a useful handbook and companion for anybody who requires a quick overview of this subject. There is also a wealth of toxicological information assembled in this volume. The extensive section on color brings together knowledge and chemistry that is comprehensive and detailed and rarely found in one place. Topics include:

  • Natural vegetable and fixed oils
  • Natural butters
  • Natural waxes
  • Saponins (emulsifier)
  • Natural Preservatives
  • Minerals
  • Botanical extracts
  • Essential oils (fragrance)
  • Natural actives
  • Isoflavones, phytohormones and phytosterols
  • Anti-irritants
  • Natural color
  • Gemmotherapy
  • Legal Issues

Anthony Dweck has worked for Smith & Nephew, S.C. Johnson, Marks & Spencer, and Peter Black (now PB Beauty). In 1998 he formed Dweck Data in order to devote more time to the study of botanicals and their chemistry.

Past council member, Society of Cosmetic Scientists (SCS), 1984—1986; past president, SCS, 1996—1997 and 2001—2002; honorary member, SCS, awarded 2004; technical editor, Personal Care magazine, Asia-Pacific since 1999 and Europe since 2008; associate editor, International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2001–2003; moderator and creator of the Formulators’ Discussion Group, 1998–2005; honorary organizer, SCS spring conference 100% Natural, 2007; scientific advisory committee member, Cosmetic Toiletry Perfumery Association (CTPA), 1992–1998; advisory board member, Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine, 1997–1998; advisory board member, International Society of Cosmetic Dermatology, since 2003; editorial scientific advisory panel member, SPC magazine, 1997–2001; editorial scientific advisory board member, SÖFW Journal, 1988–1999; member of the LCLN (ingredient nomenclature) of the CTPA, 1994–1998; monograph review committee member, International Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists (IFSCC), 1997–1999; external examiner, SCS, since 1991); referee (reviewer),International Journal of Cosmetic Science , since 1992; sponsorship committee chairman, IFSCC Congress in 2002, Edinburgh; 1998–2000, IFSCC listed conference speaker, 1998–2000; SCS 50th anniversary book committee chairman, 1998; joint organizer of the postgraduate course in cosmetic science in 1998, 2000, 2001, 2003, 2005 and 2007; Council of Europe–botanical task force (committee of experts), appointed in 1998; consultant and expert witness (listed), Trading Standards Office.

Author of more than 100 articles and papers, and numerous book chapters, on various aspects of the cosmetic and toiletry industry, Dweck is also a frequent lecturer on his favorite topic of botanicals/ medicinal plants and has presented more than 80 papers at conferences throughout the world. He was a regular organizer of the conference program for Personal Care Ingredients Asia (PCIA) and the honorary organizer for the SCS Spring Symposium, “the 100% Natural Conference,” held May 13–15, 2007, at Staverton Park, Northants, United Kingdom.

Dweck has a unique library of more than 650 volumes on medicinal plants and their uses as well as a unique computerized database on more than 80,000 species of plants. He also maintains a comprehensive computer database of supplier technical data sheets.

"Formulating Natural Cosmetics is a concise compilation of information on the complete scope of natural raw material ingredients used in natural cosmetic products. The book explains in simple terms the folklore, traditional uses and chemistry, all together.

The author has 40 years experience in the cosmetic and toiletry industry and has written more than 100 articles and presented more than 80 papers at conferences throughout the world. This book is very concisely written and contains profiles of 300 fixed oils, 200 essential oils and 600 botanical extracts making it an invaluable asset to purchasers, formulators, aromatherapists, herbalists and marketing departments of companies producing natural products as well as students in the field."

—Published in Making Sense magazine, Volume 16, Issue 1

"The author is founder of a company in the UK devoted to the study of botanicals and their chemistry and has long been planning to put this information in a book. Here he presents approximately 300 fixed oils, 200 essential oils, and 600 botanical extracts for formulators and marketers of new products. Each entry offers a chemical description and commentary on traditional use, as well as extraction methods when available. Some data are presented in tables, where coverage includes natural butters and waxes, emulsifiers, preservatives, anti-irritants and color, along with isoflavones, phytohormones and phytosterols. A chapter on gemmotherapy introduces a type of phytotherapy based on maceration of plant buds and shoots. A chapter on legal challenges should be interesting to anyone in the industry."

— Eithne O'Leyne
Annotation © Book News Inc., Portland, OR,

"I have long admired Tony Dweck's combined chemical, botanical and medical knowledge. The comprehensive library of plant reference books he has authored, which are regularly purchased and read, along with his personal experience of working for the cosmetic industry, writing for cosmetic journals and conferences, and his famous Dweck Database, make him the author of choice for a book titled Formulating Natural Cosmetics.

The naturals are covered in 14 chapters that the Latin names of plants in alphabetical order followed by their respective trivial names. There is also a chapter on minerals and another that covers legal issues associated with formulation, followed by four appendices covering toxicity of essential oils (tabulated data); natural color review (tabulated data such as natural source, supplier, trade name, etc.); scrubs and abrasives; and finally a glossary of medical terms. There is an index and, where necessary, chemical formulae illustrate the text.

This is not a book given over to literature references; had these been required, the book would never have been finished. What we have is a comprehensive, easy-to-read and clearly classified reference book of value not only to those associated with the cosmetic industry, but to all those needing information about plants for any reason."

—Roland Hardman
BPharm BSc(Chem) PhD FRPharmS
Reader in Pharmacognosy, University of Bath, UK (retired)

"Formulating Natural Cosmetics is a brilliantly done work that is a great addition to every technical library.”

—Tony O’Lenick
President of Siltech LLC and author of Organic Chemistry for Cosmetic Chemists

"This massive reference work is exactly what you would expect from such a prolific author and expert on all things natural and botanical. It is the usual, quite thorough research and compilation of knowledge on the traditional uses and constituents of natural materials, many of which are already used in the cosmetic industry. This volume also covers some less familiar plants and natural materials that may provide inspiration to manufacturers and raw material suppliers alike.

The chapters on fixed oils, butters and fats and waxes are very comprehensive and address ingredient cross-over with some materials. Triterpenoidal saponins, an interesting class of ingredients that can be used as natural surfactants and that are not often discussed, here find ample attention. Similarly, the chapter on natural preservatives is very informative. Minerals, including extracts of precious gem stones, and marine ingredients are also types of more unusual natural ingredients that are sometimes ignored by other texts; their coverage here really contributes to this volume’s esteem. A large chunk of the book is, as it should be, devoted to botanicals and active ingredients, but it is the chapters on newer areas such as gemmotherapy, isoflavones, phytohormones and phytosterols that truly make this book unique. The final chapter covers the regulatory framework in the United Kingdom, and greater Europe, concisely addressing some of the pitfalls common to the unwary.

Formulating Natural Cosmetics is certainly going to become a very useful reference text on my bookshelf that will be well-thumbed over the years."

— Judi Beerling, C Chem MRSC, MBA
Organic Monitor Ltd, UK

Customer Reviews

Customer Reviews
Anny Victor Purba
Any business in any country that is rich in natural plant resources, such those for medicinal or cosmetic application, must have this book. I personally enjoy formulating cosmetics from natural resources. Most of the plants grown in tropical countries such as Indonesia and Brazil produce cosmetic products used in daily life. Those who produced them will find this book to be a very useful source of knowledge. Essential oils are used as raw materials, and formulators will find tremendous usage from this book which is a valuable source of information.
I am such a fan of Formulating Natural Cosmetics. The book is an absolute must-have for anyone involved in any aspect of the natural personal care industry. It provides an exhaustive compendium of current and future ingredients. All of this information is divided into sections best seen in the table of contents. Each ingredient has a profile that includes chemical composition, historical use, and a taste of any associated folklore.

The book also features other unexpected, yet very helpful sections on topics such as Toxicity of Essential Oils and The Legal Challenge. The author, Anthony Dweck, is one of the foremost authorities on properties of essential oils, namely their uses and contraindications. I could not be happier with this section's inclusion. You will find it helpful when looking at verification papers of your EOs at purchase time, as well as when formulating. Also, the section on Legal Challenges is invaluable. If you are starting a company, improving your existing company's customer relations when dealing with liability concerns, or negotiating better insurance coverage, this one section is worth its weight in gold.
Add Review

(Your browser will be redirected back to this page)

Note: Alluredbooks reserves the right to edit or remove/review content. We reserve the nonexclusive right to use content, including names, titles and company names submitted in a review in marketing materials for the product being reviewed. We assume no responsibility or liability for any content posted by you or any third party.