The Skin Care Ingredient Handbook

Linda Walker

Format Details

  • Softcover
  • 460 Pages
  • Published 2012
  • ISBN-13: 9781937235277
  • Description
  • Table of Contents
  • Author Information
  • Expert Review

You asked for an ingredient book to help you understand what makes a skin care product work and help you sell your spa products to your clients and we delivered!

The Skin Care Ingredient Handbook is a three-part reference for estheticians, skin care professionals and anyone interested in skin care. The first part consists of four chapters with topics that include:

  • 14 key functions in skin cells that active ingredients are designed to help
  • The difference between "natural" and "organic" and how they are regulated
  • Controversial and sometimes confusing concepts such as green, sustainable and synthetic
  • Definitions of need-to-know concepts such as "nanotechnology"
  • New trends in the skin care industry

The second part of the book is an easy-to-read glossary of more than 1,500 of the most common skin care ingredients. Every glossary listing includes the common name, INCI name, common uses and an icon that lets you know the best use(s) for that ingredient.

The third part includes three appendices that have practical data for additional reference, including:

  • Simple definitions of key terms such as "antioxidant"
  • Cross-reference for finding a common name when all you have is the INCI name
  • Labeling regulations for cosmetic and over-the-counter (OTC) products and how to read the labels
  • Introduction
  • Part I: Fundamentals
    • Chapter 1: Cellular Functions and Skin Aging
      • Skin Cells
      • Mitochondria and the Role of Antioxidants
      • DNA and Epigenetics
      • DNA and Telomeres
      • Sirtuins
      • Heat Shock Proteins
      • Osmoprotection
      • Human Stem Cells and Plant Stem Cells
      • Circadian Rhythms
      • Role of Cellular Enzymes
      • Collagen
      • Advanced Glycation End Products (AGEs)
      • Role of MMPIs in Skin Anti-aging
      • Inflammation
      • Skin Whitening and Brightening
      • Summary
    • Chapter 2: Ingredients Selection: Natural, Organic, or Synthetic
      • Organic Ingredients
        • The USDA National Organic Program (NOP)
        • American National Standard, NSF/ANSI 305
      • Natural Ingredients
      • Synthetic Ingredients
      • Natural vs. Synthetic Ingredients
      • Green Chemistry
      • Biosynthesis
      • Green Packaging
      • Organic and Natural Governing Organizations
        • One Harmonized Standard
      • Fair Trade
      • Summary
    • Chapter 3: Skin Care Trends
      • Sensitive Skin
      • Mature Skin
      • Aging and Acne
      • Sunscreens
      • BB Creams
      • Ethnic Skin
      • Globility
      • Scalp and Hair Products
      • Body Products
      • Summary
    • Chapter 4: Definition of Ingredients and Technologies
      • Active vs. Functional Ingredients
      • Common Functional Ingredients
        • Water
        • Emulsifiers
        • Thickeners
        • Chelating Agents
        • Humectants
        • Color
        • Fragrance
        • Preservatives
        • pH Adjustors
      • Other Common Ingredients and Concepts
        • Acids
        • Alcohol
        • Anthocyanins, Polyphenols and Flavonoids
        • Antifreeze Proteins
        • Ceramides
        • Table of Contents
        • Delivery Systems
        • Enzymes
        • Essential Oils
        • Fragrance Ingredients
        • Glycosaminoglycans
        • Growth Factors
        • Moisturizers
        • Nanotechnology
        • Neurocosmetics and Neuropeptides
        • Peptides
        • Preservatives
        • Probiotics and Prebiotics
        • Retinoids
        • Silicone
        • Spin Traps
        • Sulphoraphanes and Sinigrins
        • Surfactants
      • Summary
  • Part II: Glossary of Ingredients
  • Part III: Appendixes
    • Appendix A: FDA Labeling Regulations
      • How Does the Law Define a Cosmetic?
      • How Does the Law Define a Drug?
      • How Can a Product be a Cosmetic and a Drug?
      • How Is a Product’s Intended Use Established?
      • What about "Cosmeceuticals"?
      • The Food and Drug Administration (FDA)
        • FDA Registered Lab
        • Good Manufacturing Practices (GMP)
        • Over-the-counter (OTC) Drugs
      • OTC Drug Labeling Requirements
      • FDA Cosmetic Label Requirements
        • Cosmetic Label Outline
    • Appendix B: Definition of Terms
    • Appendix C: INCI Listing of Ingredients
      • Reading an INCI
      • What’s In an INCI Name?
      • Over-the-counter (OTC) Drugs
      • Getting It in Order
      • Red Flags Are Waving
        • Preservatives
        • Emulsifiers
      • Put Those Red Flags Away
  • Index

Linda Walker is the president and owner of Covalence Laboratories, manufacturer of science-driven custom and private label skin care products, and has been developing professional skin care products for more than 20 years. She has been involved in the invention of several patents and written or contributed to a number of articles on anti-aging ingredients for GCI magazine and Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine. Linda’s passion is skin care ingredients—to keep searching the world for sustainable ingredients that can positively impact all skin issues, to participate in the development of new high-tech ingredients for aging skin and to provide tools to skin care professionals that help them be successful.

"As a holistic nurse and clinical aromatherapist I need current, reliable and science-based information to reference on a regular basis for my consulting work and Linda Walker’s The Skin Care Ingredient Handbook is an excellent resource I have added to my library. As an author I also appreciate her completeness and easy-to-reference entries of hundreds of constituents. I was pleasantly surprised she has taken the effort and foresight to include circadian rhythms and a great discussion on natural versus synthetic materials. This is a book that will replace several others I have come to rely on."

— Valerie Cooksley, RN, OCN, FAAIM, CERT
President, Flora Medica

"Walker, who owns a manufacturing company of professional skin care products, provides estheticians, skin care professionals, and others with a guide to skin care ingredients. She outlines the 14 key functions in skin cells that active ingredients are designed to help; concepts such as natural, organic, green, sustainable, and synthetic; definitions of functional ingredients and technologies; and new trends in the industry. She then presents a glossary of about 1,500 common ingredients, with common and International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients names, descriptions, common uses, and categories for each, followed by appendices of term definitions, a name table, and labeling regulations."

— Eithne O'Leyne
Annotation © Book News Inc., Portland, OR,

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